It's not easy during Passover, the Jewish holiday during which the observant baker must give up wheat flour (as well as spelt, barley, oats and rye) and still strive to produce desserts worthy of commemorating the Exodus. No wonder so many people decline the challenge, choosing instead to serve boxes of marshmallow twists and jelly rings at the end of the ritual feast.
Until I went to cooking school, my Passover food memories were dominated by my mother's superb chopped liver and my great-grandmother's legendary gefilte fish. The dry sponge cakes and sticky-sweet almond meringues that came after the meal were instantly forgettable, even if they cost my grandparents an arm and a leg at the Upper East Side kosher bakery where they stopped on their way to our Seder at my Aunt Phyllis and Uncle Morrie's house in Great Neck, N.Y.
As an aspiring pastry chef in the 1990s, I volunteered to relieve my grandparents of their obligation and prepare the Passover dessert myself.
The first year, I kept it simple. Using unsweetened coconut from the natural-foods store, egg whites, sugar and a pinch of salt, I baked light, freshtasting coconut macaroons that opened my eyes to Passover's last-course possibilities.
The next year, my rich chocolate mousse cake was almost too good for Passover. It had the effect of transporting my family to a Parisian bistro, obliterating all thoughts of the deprivations our forebears suffered during their flight from Egypt. Like
the coconut macaroons, this was a flourless dessert I'd gladly serve year-round.A few requests for "real" cake prompted me to buy my first box of matzo cake meal to use in place of flour. I didn't love the distinctive flavor this product lent to baked goods when used in large quantities. So, I stuck with sponge cake recipes because, compared with other types of cake recipes, they called for the smallest amount of the stuff. I realized a sponge cake could be delicious if flavored with citrus zest, cocoa, espresso powder or spices. To combat dryness, I always served it with a complementary fruit salad or sorbet.
New this year for Passover, which begins at sundown Monday, is a fruit crisp. After disappointment with a tasteless topping made of crushed matzo, brown sugar, nuts and margarine, I had success with coconut and macadamia nut macaroon crumbs, which remained wonderfully flavorful and chewy while browning beautifully on top of a dish of sour cherries.
I am hardly an expert on the more arcane rules of kosher baking — it's best to consult your rabbi, rather than your food columnist, with questions about the kosher-for-Passover status of such questionable ingredients as corn syrup and peanuts — but here are a few guidelines I follow to make desserts that are both good to eat and approved for Passover consumption:
Understand Passover leaveners: The prohibition on leavened baked goods can be confusing, but the bottom line is that baked goods raised via fermentation (i.e. yeasted baked goods) are not allowed during the holiday. Baked goods leavened with whipped eggs and/or egg whites or with chemical leaveners, such as baking soda and kosher-for-Passover baking powder, which, unlike regular baking powder, contains no cornstarch, are perfectly acceptable.
Stock up on eggs: During the rest of the year, gluten-rich flour gives most baked goods their structure. Since flour can't be used during Passover, abundant eggs often provide the protein necessary to give holiday cakes and cookies some shape.
Choose the right fat: Butter can be used in Passover desserts as part of a dairy meal. For a meat meal, use kosher-for-Passover margarine, since almost all other margarine contains soy, which is one of the foods generally avoided. Many oils are permissible for Passover, including safflower, walnut, vegetable and olive oils. Canola and corn oils generally are not.
Rely on chocolate: Chocolate is the Passover baker's best friend. Unsweetened and semisweet kosher chocolate (which don't contain dairy solids) can be used to make flourless chocolate cakes, brownies and chocolate icings and frostings. Unsweetened cocoa powder can be used to make chocolate-meringue cookies and macaroons.
Indulge in nuts and coconut: Traditionally, bakers rely on nuts and coconut during Passover to lend richness and flavor to desserts.
Add natural flavors: Vanilla and other flavor extracts (which are made with nonkosher-for-Passover alcohol) are forbidden during Passover. Although kosher-for-Passover vanilla extract is becoming more widely available, it isn't easy to find. But you can always use the seeds from a real vanilla bean to flavor Passover desserts. Citrus zest is another natural way to add flavor to Passover desserts.
Don't forget fruit and fruit sauces: To combat the potential dryness of a sponge cake or to balance the over-the-top richness of a nut torte or flourless chocolate cake, serve a fruit salad, compote or sauce as an accompaniment.
SOUR CHERRY CRISP WITH COCONUT AND MACADAMIA NUT TOPPING
Crispy-chewy macaroons make a perfect topping for this simple crisp. A little bit of dry red Passover wine along with cherry juice gives the filling wonderful flavor. Alternatively, leave the wine out and use 1 1/2 cups reserved cherry juice instead.
Makes 6 to 8 servings.
Topping:
6 tablespoons sugar
2 large egg whites
1 1/2 cups unsweetened coconut
1/2 cup coarsely chopped macadamia nuts
1/2 teaspoon kosher-for-Passover vanilla extract or seeds from 1/2 vanilla bean
Pinch salt
Filling:
2 jars (24 ounces each) sour cherries, drained (about 4 cups), 1 cup juice reserved
1/3 cup sugar
2 tablespoons potato starch
1/2 cup dry red kosher-for-Passover wine
To prepare oven, baking sheet: Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Line baking sheet with parchment paper.
To make topping: In medium bowl, combine sugar, egg whites, coconut, nuts, vanilla and salt. Spread mixture in even 1/2-inch-thick layer on prepared baking sheet. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes or until firm and light golden. Remove from oven. Cool on baking sheet.
To make filling: Spread cherries in even layer over bottom of 8-inch square baking dish. In small saucepan, whisk together sugar and potato starch. Whisk in reserved cherry juice and wine. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, whisking, for 5 minutes or until thickened. Pour syrup over cherries.
To assemble: Crumble coconut mixture over cherries. Bake for 10 minutes or until fruit is bubbling and topping is golden brown. Cool to room temperature. Serve.
CITRUS SPONGECAKE WITH TROPICAL FRUIT
If you can't find matzo cake meal (sometimes my supermarket doesn't carry it), you can finely grind 1/3 cup regular matzo meal in food processor. An ungreased angel food cake pan is essential for a high rise. As cake bakes, batter will grip sides of pan and rise high. (Note: Cake will have much more trouble rising in greased pan.) By cooling cake upside down, you use gravity to prevent it from collapsing.
Makes 8 servings.
Cake:
1/3 cup matzo cake meal
1/2 cup potato starch
9 large eggs, separated
1 cup sugar, divided use
2 teaspoons finely grated orange zest
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
1/2 teaspoon finely grated lime zest
1/2 tablespoon orange juice
1/4 teaspoon salt
Fruit salad:
3 cups diced golden pineapple
2 kiwis, peeled and thinly sliced
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
2 tablespoons lime juice
2 tablespoons sugar
To prepare oven: Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
To make cake: In medium bowl, whisk together matzo cake meal and potato starch. In large mixing bowl, combine yolks and 3/4 cup sugar. Using electric mixer, beat on high for 5 minutes or until thick and pale. Stir in orange zest, lemon zest, lime zest and orange juice. In clean bowl, use electric mixer to beat egg whites and salt until foamy. With mixer on high, add remaining 1/4 cup sugar in slow, steady stream. Continue to beat until egg whites just hold stiff peaks. Fold matzo cake meal mixture into yolk mixture. Gently fold in whites, in 3 additions.
To bake cake: Scrape into ungreased 2-piece angel-food cake pan. Bake for 15 minutes. Reduce oven heat 325 degrees. Bake for 35 to 45 minutes or until center is springy. Remove from oven. If pan has feet, invert onto heatproof surface and allow to cool completely. (Note: If pan doesn't have feet, invert 4 drinking glasses on counter and rest inverted pan on top of glasses to allow air to circulate underneath cake while it cools.)
To make fruit salad: In medium bowl, combine pineapple, kiwi, ginger, lime juice and sugar. Let stand, stirring occasionally to dissolve sugar.
To serve: Run paring knife around edges of cake. Run paring knife under cake. Slide cake off removable bottom and onto serving platter. Slice cake. Serve with fruit salad.
FLOURLESS CHOCOLATE CAKE WITH RASPBERRY SAUCE
If you are looking for a Passover dessert that is simple to make, can be prepared up to a week in advance and delivers pure chocolate decadence, this recipe is for you. The raspberry sauce to accompany it, made with a bag of frozen raspberries, a bit of sugar and a spoonful of lemon juice, couldn't be easier. You also can add a dollop of whipped cream or nondairy whipped topping to each serving.
Makes 8 servings.
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter or margarine, plus more for greasing pan
1 pound bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
8 large eggs, lightly beaten
1/2 teaspoon kosher-for-Passover vanilla extract (optional)
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 bag (12 ounces) frozen raspberries, thawed
1/4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon lemon juice
To prepare oven and pan: Place large roasting pan on middle rack of oven. Add 1/2-inch very hot tap water. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease bottom and sides of 9-inch springform pan. Line with parchment paper. Grease parchment. Place pan on sheet of heavy-duty aluminum foil. Mold foil to sides, but not over top, of pan to prevent water from seeping in.
To make cake batter: Put 1 inch water in bottom of double boiler or large saucepan. Bring to a bare simmer. In top of double boiler or stainless-steel bowl big enough to rest on top of saucepan, combine butter and chocolate. Place on top of simmering water. Heat, whisking occasionally, until completely melted. Set aside to cool slightly. Whisk eggs, vanilla and salt into chocolate mixture until well combined.
To bake cake: Scrape batter into prepared pan. Carefully place pan into roasting pan of hot water. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes or until set around edges but still a little loose in center. Carefully lift pan from water. Cool on wire rack. Cover cake, still in pan, with plastic. (Note: Make sure plastic wrap doesn't touch surface of cake.) Refrigerate overnight or up to 1 week.
To make raspberry sauce: In bowl of food processor, combine raspberries, sugar and lemon juice. Process until smooth. Press through fine strainer and into bowl. Discard seeds.
To serve: Run sharp paring knife around edge of springform pan. Remove pan sides. Invert cake onto sheet of wax paper. Peel away parchment paper. Reinvert onto serving platter. Slice and serve with raspberry sauce.
FLOURLESS ALMOND TORTE WITH APRICOT COMPOTE
When making this dense and delicious torte, be careful not to overbeat the egg whites (they should form very soft, not stiff, peaks); otherwise, cake may sink in center as it cools. A whole vanilla bean (half for cake batter, half for compote) adds wonderful flavor, but a little kosher-for-Passover vanilla extract (use 1/2 teaspoon in cake and stir 1/2 teaspoon into cooked apricots) can be substituted. To decorate, sift some kosher-for-Passover confectioners' sugar, which contains potato starch rather than cornstarch, over cake just before serving.
Makes 8 servings.
Cake:
2 1/2 cups (10 ounces) blanched slivered almonds
1 1/2 cups sugar
7 eggs
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 vanilla bean
Compote:
2 cups water
1/4 cup sugar
2 cups (about 40) dried apricots, coarsely chopped
2 bay leaves
1/2 vanilla bean
To prepare oven, pan: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Spray 9-inch springform pan with nonstick cooking spray. Line bottom with parchment. Spray parchment with cooking spray.
To make cake: In work bowl of food processor, combine almonds and sugar. Process until finely ground. Set aside. Separate 4 eggs, placing yolks in large mixing bowl and whites in another large mixing bowl. To bowl with yolks, add remaining 3 eggs, salt and seeds from 1/2 vanilla bean. Whisk until smooth. Stir in almond-sugar mixture until smooth. Using electric mixer, whip reserved whites until very floppy peaks just form. Gently fold into batter.
To bake cake: Scrape batter into prepared pan. Smooth top with spatula. Bake for 45 to 50 minutes or until skewer inserted into center comes out clean. (Note: Check on cake after 35 minutes. If it is browning too quickly, loosely tent with foil for final 10 to 15 minutes.) Run paring knife around edges of cake. Cool completely in pan on wire rack.
To make compote: In medium saucepan, combine water and sugar. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce heat. Simmer for 5 minutes or until slightly thickened. Stir in apricots, bay leaves and 1/2 vanilla bean. Cook for 5 minutes. Remove from heat. Scrape into bowl. Cool to room temperature. Remove. Discard bay leaves and vanilla bean.
To serve: Release cake from sides of springform pan. Slice. Serve with compote on side.
CLASSIC COCONUT MACAROONS
Makes 2 dozen cookies.
3/4 cup sugar
2 1/2 cups unsweetened coconut (see shopper's note)
2 large egg whites
1 teaspoon kosher-for-Passover vanilla extract, optional
1/8 teaspoon salt
To prepare oven, baking sheet: Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.
To make batter: In medium mixing bowl, combine sugar, coconut, egg whites, vanilla and salt. Using rubber spatula, mix to combine. Drop batter by heaping tablespoonfuls onto prepared baking sheets. Using fingers, press each cookie into pyramid shape, leaving 1 1/2 inches between each cookie.
To bake macaroons: Bake for 10 minutes or until golden. Slide parchment onto wire rack. Cool completely. Carefully peel cookies off parchment paper.
To store: Coconut macaroons will keep in airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.
Shopper's note: Unsweetened coconut produces fluffy, not-too-sweet macaroons. Look for it in natural-foods section of supermarket.
